New Delhi Sightseeing - Part 1 - India Gate & the Ancient Stepwell(Agrasen ki Baoli)

From Connaught Place to the Tourist Spots

After exploring Connaught Place for a while, I decided to head to two places I had been curious about—India Gate and Agrasen ki Baoli.

There were many auto rickshaws parked nearby. Based on my past experiences negotiating in other countries, I figured there might be a little overcharging, but as long as I chose someone who didn’t seem shady, it should be fine.

I negotiated a price for a route that would first take me to the stepwell and then to India Gate, and we agreed on it (or so I thought).

What is an Auto Rickshaw in India?

If you walk around India, you’ll definitely see plenty of auto rickshaws.

They’re three-wheeled, taxi-like vehicles, commonly called “autos” by locals. They're used mainly for short-distance travel and usually involve price negotiation—but for foreigners, the fare often mysteriously increases at the end of the ride.

They’re similar to tuk-tuks in Thailand, and although the concept is the same, assuming they work the same way can lead to trouble—so be cautious.

It can be a fun way to ride through the chaos of India, but beware of scams and overcharging.

With that context in mind, I hope you enjoy the rest of the article!

A Mysterious Souvenir Shop Detour

We got into the auto rickshaw and headed toward the stepwell—but checking Google Maps, I noticed we were taking a weird detour.

From my past experiences in Thailand and Indonesia, I had a hunch...

Sure enough, the driver said he had a “friend’s souvenir shop” and brought me there first.

Classic India!
I firmly said “No” and insisted he take me to the stepwell as originally agreed.

Arrival at the Stepwell (Agrasen ki Baoli)

What is Agrasen ki Baoli?

Agrasen ki Baoli is a historic stepwell located in the heart of New Delhi.

It features long, descending stone steps that lead underground to a reservoir. Built in ancient times to store water, its peaceful atmosphere and striking architecture make it a popular hidden gem among tourists.

It really just appears suddenly in the middle of New Delhi.

Although the weather that day was incredibly hot, the space inside the stepwell felt cool and quiet, a complete escape from the noise and honking of the outside world—a truly beautiful spot.

Heading to India Gate

Next, I met up with the rickshaw driver again to head toward India Gate.

What is India Gate?

India Gate is a war memorial located in the center of New Delhi.

It commemorates Indian soldiers who died in World War I, and its grand design has led to comparisons with the Arc de Triomphe in Paris.

I was looking forward to seeing this piece of Indian history, but…

Surprise! Another souvenir shop detour.

Once again, the driver tried to take me to another of his “friend’s” souvenir shops. I firmly said no and refused to get out.

I get that this kind of thing happens once in a trip, but twice was a bit much. It reminded me once again of the beautiful chaos of India.

This is India!

After all the sidetracking, we finally made it to India Gate.

Huge! Absolutely massive!!
Its overwhelming scale was incredibly satisfying.

Saying Goodbye to the Annoying Rickshaw Driver

After the second detour to a souvenir shop, I had had enough. I told the driver, “I have a business meeting, please drop me off at the Shangri-La Hotel.”

On the way, he kept suggesting other tourist spots, but I declined them all with a firm “No” and asked him to take me directly to the hotel.

When it was finally time to part ways, I paid the fare we had agreed on—but then he said, “This isn’t enough.” He demanded another 200 rupees.

“What? Why? We agreed on this price, didn’t we?”

He replied,
“I took you to all those souvenir shops, and now I’m tired and hungry. I need 200 more.”

I was like, “What?! You took me there on your own!” but we went back and forth for a few minutes.

After about five minutes of arguing, I realized I was too tired to care and just gave him the extra 200 rupees to be done with it.

I had originally asked him to drop me off at the lobby of the Shangri-La Hotel, but he claimed he couldn’t enter the driveway and stopped a little before it.
At that moment, I realized he probably didn’t want the hotel staff to see him and potentially step in to mediate.

“This is India!”

As expected, and honestly, kind of amusing.

Shangri-La New Delhi

Feeling a bit worn out from the experience, I headed into the Shangri-La Hotel and shifted my mindset.

It was around lunchtime, so I decided to eat at the lounge on the first floor.

Lemon cola and samosa:

Éclair and tea:

So good!
Since I’d mostly been surrounded by local street vibes, this luxurious space felt like such a refreshing change of pace.

Next time, I’d love to actually stay here overnight.

My New Delhi adventures are far from over!